Brewed in Brooklyn

“You could argue that Brooklyn was the brewing capital of the United States,” says one expert in filmmaker John Weber's well-crafted documentary tracing the history of beer making in the New York borough from the early 1800s through the present day. Vintage and contemporary footage accompanies input from historians, brewers, and beer lovers, who talk about the origins of the industry, including the German immigrant family behind classic brands such as Rheingold (whose “Miss Rheingold” pageants were a hugely successful promotional effort in the mid-20th century). Viewers learn about the days when brewing only took place at certain times of the year, and blocks of ice (cut from lakes during the winter) kept in icehouses were the only way to have cold beer available during the warmer months. By the late 1880s, Brooklyn boasted 35 breweries, which generated $8 million in sales annually, but things really took off in the 1900s thanks to pasteurization and canning, which allowed for longer shelf life and regional distribution. Of course, then came Prohibition, which hit “like a sucker punch in a Bensonhurst ballroom.” In response, the industry limped along, making lemonade, soft drinks, and “near beer” until Prohibition was repealed in 1933. But other challenges beset the producers—labor difficulties and outside competition among them—leading to a collapse by the 1970s. However, in 1988, the startup Brooklyn Brewery launched a renaissance that now also includes a multitude of enthusiastic home brewers. An entertaining and informative documentary sure to appeal to brew fans, this is highly recommended. Aud: P. (C. Block)