Deli Man

“There are two kinds of people in this world,” wrote Damon Runyon, “people who love delis and people you shouldn't associate with.” That quote is the lead-off for Erik Greenberg Anjou's documentary exploring the mouth-watering traditions and temptations of America's Jewish delicatessens. Nostalgia drives David “Ziggy” Gruber, a third-generation owner who began working at his grandfather's deli when he was a kid. Ziggy attended the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu culinary school and even trained at a three-star Michelin restaurant in London before deciding to return to his roots. Now he runs Kenny and Ziggy's in Houston. According to writer/food historian Jane Ziegelman, delis first became popular as low-cost eateries for German Jewish immigrants arriving from the diaspora in Eastern Europe. Mounds of pastrami, corned beef, and chopped chicken livers carried seductive appeal, along with knishes and kugel. In 1931, there were 1,550 kosher delis—and as many or more non-kosher competitors—in the five boroughs of New York. Now, perhaps 150 remain in all of North America. “Schmaltz” in both senses (poultry fat and corny sentimentalism) is an absolute kitchen essential at other delis as well, including Katz's on Manhattan's Lower East Side, Artie's on the Upper West Side, Manny's in Chicago, Caplansky's in Toronto, Canter's in Los Angeles, and Nate ‘n Al in Beverly Hills. Yiddish was often spoken and surly waitresses served as surrogate mothers who counseled those far from home, according to testimonials from devotees such as Jerry Stiller, Fyvush Finkel, Larry King, and attorney Alan Dershowitz. Years ago, deli staples included delectable dishes like goulash, chicken fricassee, potted meatballs, and gribenes (fried schmaltz). Now, people mainly want matzo ball soup and pastrami on rye. Not a deep portrait, but one that will likely appeal to foodies, this is a strong optional purchase. [Note: DVD/Blu-ray extras include interviews with the participants (41 min.), the behind-the-scenes featurettes “A Surprise…Meet Izzy” (7 min.), “Ziggy Visits ACME Smoked Fish” (6 min.), “Ziggy and Dennis Talk Deli” (5 min.), “Sam Brummer's Story” (4 min.), and “Deli Woman: Jacqueline Canter” (2 min.), and trailers. Bottom line: a solid extras package for a mildly entertaining foodie doc.] (S. Granger)