James Beard: America's First Foodie

James Beard (1903-1985) was one of America's first "food geeks." Filmmaker Elizabeth Federici's PBS-aired American Masters documentary serves up an engaging portrait of the colorful, portly Beard, who appreciated good food (including mac and cheese!), never considered himself a chef, approached cooking as an adventure, published 22 cookbooks, and made it more acceptable for men to take charge in the kitchen. Beard was brought up in Portland, OR, the product of an absent father and a mother widely celebrated for whipping up culinary delights for the guests at her inn or boardinghouse. James Beard was always "too out" to be accepted as a gay man in the early 20th century, getting kicked out of Reed College (although he would later receive an honorary degree and make them a beneficiary in his will). A trip to Europe opened his eyes to continental cuisine. A people person, Beard celebrated food as part of entertainment, appearing early on TV, although few people owned a TV set in the late 1940s, and Beard was never a telegenic personality. Sometimes broke, Beard had a knack for getting himself invited to dinner parties, calling himself a "gastronomic gigolo" and cooking for guests. Beard was a natural teacher, liked to bring people together, and leaned toward simple, farm to table recipes. Students and admirers (including Martha Stewart) here pay tribute to this man who also helped establish a special Meals on Wheels program for New York City's needy residents. Combining archival film clips (some with Beard and his friend Julia Child) and interviews, this profile of a man who was an outsized master in every sense of the word is recommended. Aud: C, P. (S. Rees)