Le Cirque: A Table in Heaven

Filmmaker Andrew Rossi provides an unvarnished, behind-the-scenes look at Le Cirque, a celebrated restaurant patronized by New York's political, financial, and social elites—filmed at a time when owner Sirio Maccioni and his three sons face difficulties. Trends are changing, business is declining, and the decision is made to close the titular establishment at the Palace Hotel at the end of 2004. The elder Maccioni—an opinionated, strong-willed man—decides to relocate to the Bloomberg Building, and this HBO-aired documentary follows the bittersweet rituals of closing the venerable eatery and arduous process of planning a new venture, with intergenerational tensions coming to the fore in decisions regarding issues such as establishing a patron dress code, designing the menu, and hiring and training waiters. Meanwhile, vintage footage tells Silvio's backstory, from his humble beginnings in Tuscany and immigration to America, to his career in the restaurant business, including overseeing Le Cirque in its heyday, with Richard Nixon among the diners. The 2006 opening night at the new location is a gala, celebrity-studded affair—with Donald Trump, Tony Bennett, Woody Allen, and many others on hand—but the establishment wins only two stars from the New York Times (after some retooling, a third is eventually added.) A few years later, Silvio, in his mid-70s, still has no thoughts of retiring from the labor-intensive enterprise. DVD extras include bonus scenes and a Q&A with Rossi. Sure to be popular with foodies and NYC buffs, this is recommended. [Note: Rossi and wife Kate Novack's related 2004 documentary Eat This New York is also newly available from First Run Features.] Aud: P. (S. Rees)