Mondovino: The Series

Documentarian Jonathan Nossiter's edited-down feature film Mondovino on the world of winemaking was released theatrically in 2004 and on DVD in 2007. But that 135-minute film was an aperitif compared to the original series of 10 hour-long television episodes compiled here. The thrust is the same: contrasting increased globalization and standardization in production with the traditional family-based system (prevalent in regions like Burgundy and Bordeaux) that emphasizes the importance of wines reflecting the unique soil—the terroir—on which the vines are grown. And the main villains are unchanged—globe-trotting consultant Michael Rolland, all-powerful tastemaker Robert Parker, and the Mondavi family, whose attempt to acquire land near Aniane in Languedoc causes a crisis in the town that's wittily covered in the first episode. But equally important are the heroes—the quirky, individualistic proprietors who steadfastly hold to the old ways and hope to pass on their obsession to future generations. While most also appeared in the movie, the series allows them to express themselves at far greater length (some of the digressions are charming). Mondovino covers a broad expanse, with segments in South America, Italy, and Sardinia, as well as France and the United States, and admittedly suffers from repetition. But Nossiter is an amiable guide, and while the truncated documentary might be sufficient for the casual wine drinker, connoisseurs will appreciate this fuller, richer version. Recommended. Aud: C, P. (F. Swietek)