Soul Food Junkies

For many African Americans, a soul food gathering is a cherished time of “cooking and talking together." However, in recent years, health experts have warned that soul food is comparatively high in fat, salt, and calories, representing a risk for diabetes, high blood pressure, heart disease, obesity, and other ailments. Written and directed by Byron Hurt, this PBS-aired Independent Lens documentary examines the complex relationship between black people and food, which stretches back to Africa and later slave days. Hurt has a personal stake in the issue, as his father suffered from obesity, and died young from cancer. Soul Food Junkies defines what soul food is, describes how it is prepared, and looks at its role in the days of segregation, when families—barred from "whites only" restaurants—routinely prepared "shoe box lunches" for long car or train trips. Hurt visits tailgate festivities at black college sports events, and soul food competition cook-offs, which also attract white audiences and other devoted foodies. Comedian and longtime health activist Dick Gregory scorns soul cooking as "death food," while black Muslims claim it celebrates a "slave diet." Hurt notes that impoverished inner cities often constitute a "food desert," where residents are unable to buy healthy fresh fruits and vegetables, and instead resort to cheap eating at fast food restaurants. Perhaps part of the solution may lie with community gardens, and healthier ways to prepare the soul food that people love. Ultimately, Hurt notes that soul food comes from the soul—not the manner in which it is cooked—and that African Americans must search for food that is "good to us and good for us." A thought-provoking documentary that will appeal to foodies and history buffs, this is recommended. Aud: C, P. (S. Rees)