Steak (R)evolution

Distinctly going against the contemporary grain of documentaries on health-conscious/plant-based diets, Gallic filmmaker Franck Ribière's documentary celebrates meat. Declaring that French viande cookery has been hobbled by butchers' preference for lean, well-muscled animals—and by “nutritionists” (horreurs!)—Ribière travels to Brazil, the United States, Canada, Scotland, England, Japan, Sweden, and Italy in a countdown (not always mathematically sequential) of the top steak-serving restaurants and their techniques. Not surprisingly, a salut goes out to small family farms, where cattle are fattened and conditioned with the best possible feed, exercise, and care (until they are slaughtered, of course). A Japanese Kobe beef farmer admits that he does massage his animals, but, unlike others, he does not make them drink beer (the beasts get too drunk too fast). And the revelation of where to find the finest steak in the world makes for a worthy climax. Among authors interviewed are Mark Schatzker and Rene Laporte, while top chefs visited include Sébastien Bras and the late Marcos Bassi. A premium entrée for foodies, this is highly recommended. (C. Cassady)