Step Up to the Plate

While filming a series about great international chefs, filmmaker Paul Lacoste was struck by the sensitivity and humanity of Sébastien Bras, a middle-aged man who was then an apprentice to his father, eponymous owner of the three-Michelin-star restaurant Michel Bras in France's Aubrac region. Returning 11 years later, Lacoste filmed for over a year as the establishment passed from the elder Bras to his son. Although food has a role here, this documentary is not aimed at hardcore foodies, since it is primarily about relationships: between Michel and Sébastien, among Sébastien and his family, and most especially between Sébastien and nature as the seasons progress. The starkly beautiful French countryside gives way to a winter interlude at the Bras' branch restaurant in Toya, Japan, where Sébastien lovingly crafts a French delicacy he has reinvented using Japanese ingredients, and Michel examines the dish in maddening detail before trying it. Step Up to the Plate is narration-less, with gentle music balancing everyday sounds: an onion being peeled, the grating of a lime, feet crunching through snow. The visuals are similarly complementary as we see the stark white of aprons and toques contrasted with the black outfits of the wait staff. DVD extras include an interview with Lacoste and deleted scenes. A splendid portrait of a family's passion for food and one another, this delightful documentary is highly recommended. Editor's Choice. Aud: C, P. (F. Gardner)