Sushi: The Global Catch

Americans have grown accustomed to sushi in supermarkets and on conveyor belt-style operations, but it's doubtful they've given much thought to the food's origins. In this culinary-minded ecological documentary, filmmaker Mark S. Hall scrutinizes the state of today's bluefin tuna population, particularly in light of sushi's growing popularity (especially in China). Hall starts by profiling fourth-generation master chef Mamoru Sugiyama, who oversees Tokyo's Michelin-rated Sushiko Restaurant, a traditional sushi establishment founded in 1885. Sugiyama appreciates the praise he has received for his artistry, but sees himself as more of a craftsman. For the first three years, he explains, apprentice chefs wash the dishes and serve the food; only after seven years have they mastered the skills necessary to prepare the sushi. Sugiyama purchases his fish from Tsukiji, the world's largest seafood market, which busily ships their goods around the world (although even career fishermen in Japan worry that they're doing more harm than good by depleting this rapidly-diminishing species). Marine biologists speak about the crucial role of the bluefin tuna in the ocean ecosystem, and the documentary looks at Australia's farm-raised tuna industry as a possible alternative. Other speakers include activists, politicians, fish sellers, knife merchants, and restaurant workers in Austin, San Francisco, and Lodz (one entrepreneur even offers sushi on a stick). The advice here: don't avoid sushi, but do seek out the most sustainable options. Despite the cuisine-centric first act, Sushi: The Global Catch has more in common with impassioned eco-docs like Sharkwater (VL Online-7/08) and The Cove (VL-1/10). Recommended. Aud: C, P. (K. Fennessy)