The Restaurateur

So-called “foodies”—or anyone who thinks it might be fun to run their own restaurant—will find plenty of food for thought in filmmaker Roger Sherman's engaging documentary, which follows Danny Meyer, creator of New York's famed Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Cafe, as he attempts to open two dining establishments almost simultaneously—Tabla, a high-end Indian eatery, and Eleven Madison Park, which offers haute American cuisine. Much of the footage dates back to 1998, as Meyer and his assembled team—including premier chefs—sweat every detail of creating would-be world-class restaurants. Noting the 30-day gap between opening the two venues, Meyer reveals that this is the time period “when you find the first major mistake from a management standpoint … the lighting, ventilation, or something will be on the fritz.” Supplementing the earlier material, new interviews with Meyer and others reflect on additional aspects of the experience, including the gut-wrenching effects of visits from influential restaurant critics. DVD extras include an epilogue, biographies, and a photo gallery. Offering an inside look that is much more filling than the manufactured dramas of reality-TV cooking and restaurant shows, this is recommended. Aud: C, P. (D. Liebenson)