El Bulli: Cooking in Progress

The Catalan restaurant El Bulli—subject of this cinema verité documentary by Gereon Wetzel—was recognized as one of the world's best from the time Ferran Adrià took sole control of the kitchen in 1987 to its recent closure prior to being converted into a foundation-funded culinary research center. As a souvenir memento of this famed gastronomic mecca, this film will certainly be welcomed by other chefs, as well as by gourmets who never got the chance to experience El Bulli firsthand. Under Adrià's direction, the establishment specialized in inventive haute cuisine, fashioning ultra-exotic dishes for its annual 30-course tasting menus. The restaurant was actually open only six months each year, with the chief chefs spending the other six in Madrid preparing items for the coming season using a process of rigorous experimentation involving both scientific analysis and taste-testing. Wetzel's film, shot in 2008–09, is divided into two sections: the first covers the period of creation in Madrid, with Adrià popping in occasionally to sample the fare, and the second moves to the restaurant, capturing the training of the serving staff and the presentation of the dishes to patrons. Given that the food is designed to appeal to so many of the senses, it's odd that much of El Bulli has a dry, antiseptic feel. But it does come alive at the end, with beautifully arranged stills of individual dishes like “disappearing ravioli” and tea shrimp with caviar anemones. Unfortunately, samples are not included. Likely to appeal to foodies, this is a strong optional purchase. Aud: C, P. (F. Swietek)