Mondovino

Devotees of fine wines are likely to agree with documentary filmmaker Jonathan Nossiter that the globalization of the industry and the power wielded within it by mega-manufacturers, jet-setting consultants, and over-powerful taste-masters are leading to a one-size-fits-all mentality that quashes local distinctions and traditions, crushing varietal differences in favor of a bland uniformity. The title suggests the “world of wine,” but it also alludes cheekily to the Mondavi family of California, whom Nossiter sees as spreading their corporate tentacles all over the globe, taking over local wineries and then shifting production methods to meet consumer preferences they've manipulated through the twin engines of economics and advertising. Mondovino makes its points ruefully, identifying those it perceives as villains and celebrating those bucking the trend, but the tone is one of resignation, a half-understood realization that--at best--whatever can be mounted against the juggernaut is a heroic but futile rearguard action. The film also proceeds in a rambling, meandering way, not so much shuttling as stumbling from place to place and back again, visiting and revisiting locales until a viewer might begin to feel some visceral jetlag. But while only a real connoisseur of rare vintages may appreciate the film's full flavor, as a microcosm of the larger dangers of globalization, Mondovino has a wider appeal than just wine-fanciers. Recommended. [Note: DVD extras include audio commentary by director Jonathan Nossiter and nearly an hour’s worth of bonus footage. Bottom line: a solid extras package for an incisive doc.] (F. Swietek)