Off the Menu: Asian America

In the Asian American community, food is considered one way to honor family, community, and one's own personal history. In this PBS-aired documentary, Korean-American filmmaker Grace Lee sets out on an odyssey to discover how food defines Asian Americans. Her first stop is a visit to a Japanese-American entrepreneur known as the "sushi king of Texas." A common theme emerges here about the need to serve authentic dishes versus what is in demand. Ironically, the sushi king employs mostly Koreans, while a Korean factory profiled here is overwhelmingly staffed by Latino workers—a multicultural mix that is consistent with the American narrative. Contemporary fusion cooking seeks "authenticity of spirit" rather than fidelity to any particular region (interestingly, many Asian American children crave their native cuisine, yet do not speak their parents' native language). Other locales visited include New York City's venerable Chinatown, and Hawaii, where people are reclaiming their culture, spearing and cooking octopus for communal luaus. The most interesting segment stops at a large Sikh temple in Wisconsin that was scarred by a white supremacist shooting in 2012. After the tragedy, the community unites at a langar—a large community hall where large meals are served. Each member sits on the ground in a gesture of equality, while the acts of serving or being served by others become a ritual characterized as an "offering of love and care." Noting that food can not only break down barriers but also be part of a healing process, this documentary serves up an unusual combination of social commentary and culinary insights. Recommended. Aud: C, P. (S. Rees)