Considered the world's greatest sushi chef, 85-year-old Jiro Ono owns Sukiyabashi Jiro, an austere, 10-seat-only restaurant in a subterranean arcade under a Tokyo office building near the Ginza subway. Michelin gave Jiro a rare 3-star rating, indicating that it is “worth traveling to the country just to eat there” and Japan considers him a living national treasure. A passionate perfectionist who dedicates himself to his kitchen—adhering to the cultural reverence for “shokunin,” or dedicated artisanal work ethic—Jiro never takes time off except for funerals. And as the title suggests, he literally dreams of creating exotic sushi dishes that no one has ever tasted before. Filmmaker David Gelb obviously developed a personal rapport with Jiro, who explains how he was forced out of his home and began working with sushi by the age of 10. Meticulous training and maintaining high standards are paramount to Jiro, who diligently passes along his knowledge to his apprentice sons. Destined to inherit his father's mantle, stoic Yoshikazu is dispatched to buy fish at Tokyo's enormous Tsukiji seafood market, where the specialized vendors are often as idiosyncratic as their demanding customers. Uncompromising when it comes to food preparation, Jiro orders his assistants to hand-massage octopus for 40-50 minutes before serving (one helper even relates how he prepared an egg sushi that was deemed unacceptable 200 times over a four-month period before the master approved it). While there are mouth-watering close-ups of Jiro and Yoshikazu's creations, reservations must be made well in advance at $350 per person for the tasting menu of 20 pieces to be consumed in 30 minutes. An interesting portrait that is sure to appeal to foodies, this is recommended. [Note: DVD/Blu-ray extras include audio commentary by director David Gelb and editor Brandon Driscoll-Luttringer, deleted scenes (21 min.), “Masters” additional footage from sushi chefs (19 min.), a brief “Sushi Gallery” montage, trailers, and the BD-Live function. Bottom line: a fine extras package for a tasty doc.] (S. Granger)
Jiro Dreams of Sushi
Magnolia, 81 min., in Japanese w/English subtitles, PG, DVD: $26.98, Blu-ray: $29.98, July 24 Volume 27, Issue 3
Jiro Dreams of Sushi
Star Ratings
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