Smithsonian World: A Moveable Feast

Writer/narrator Lloyd Dobyns delivers a fascinating culinary history of America in this beautifully filmed, snappily written documentary from the Smithsonian World series. Using dramatic reconstructions from the colonial period, the program introduces the initial melding of gastronomic interests by demonstrating how Native Americans taught the pilgrims the cultivation of corn. In October of 1627, colonials and Dutch representatives sat down over victuals to discuss important matters in what may have been the "first business lunch." The Dutch got some tasty treats, to be sure, but they passed along a real gem too: cheese. With the introduction of the railroad much later, foods were transported between various regions, opening up possibilities previously unavailable (for instance, if you lived in Pennsylvania, prior to the railroad, chances are you never ate a Georgia peach--unless you happened to take your horse down to Georgia). With the railroads came the establishment of the diners (the Harvey House diners were an early favorite). Following the diners came the huge supermarket chains as processed food took a decisive lead over naturally prepared foods. With the introduction of the automobile, the fast food restaurant was born, initially serviced by carhops, later installed with drive-up windows. The program looks at the "power lunches" prepared at the prestigious 21 Club, as well as the massive lunches prepared at the Air Force Academy (chili for 5,000!). Finally, the video interviews Alice Waters, founder of Chez Panisse, and looks at the way we've come full circle in our eating habits: from natural foods, naturally prepared to processed foods and back again. This top-notch documentary, in addition to the dramatic reconstructions, and contemporary interviews, also features an excellent sampling of--often amusing--historical footage. Our favorite shot: a close-up of an aluminum wrapped "quick frozen Video Dinner." My guess is that the shot dates from the mid-50s. Highly recommended. Editor's Choice. (See THE AIDS QUARTERLY for availability.)